French Jacket Progress - Ces Maudites Poches (those damned pockets)!
One of the things that has been so daunting about completing my French Couture Jacket are all the buttonholes. There are 14 total - 4 on the front, 3 on each sleeve and one on each of the 4 pockets. Each buttonhole requires multiple steps. First you stitch a little rectangle (with your machine) using really tiny stitches, then you cut a slit and then proceed to hand finish this with lots of tiny blanket stitches around the entire hole. If this weren't enough, then you must create a bound buttonhole on the back (lining) side, using welts from your lining and then making a lovely hand stitched finish on each buttonhole on the lining side. Quite a process.
So, then the body of the jacket gets worked on, buttonholes and all. Then, moving on to sleeves, those get completed. But, as the finish line approaches, there are FOUR MORE POCKETS to complete and attach to the jacket. AND, each of those pockets is a little study in the whole process. This Jacket is testing my practice in patience for sure. As each section is completed, however, it is really all coming together and overall, I'm very pleased with the results.
Here is a step-by-step breakdown of how the pockets are put together, after the hand stitched buttonhole is completed -
1. Apply interfacing to pocket and then stitch a small rectangle the size of your buttonhole in the correct position. (see description above to complete the buttonhole). Fold back seam allowance and catch stitch in place to the pocket, around all sides. I actually mitered the corners before turning and pressing.
2. Create two welts by cutting lengths of lining and folding in half lengthwise. The folded edges should be placed facing each other, over the center of the buttonhole.
3. Permanently secure welts in place by stitching.
4. Pin lining in place over back side of pocket. You can hand baste stitches for quilting (or not). I chose to stitch between pins as it is such a small piece of fabric.
5. Stitch quilting lines in place between pins (no back stitching).
6. Pull thread ends to inside between lining and pocket.
7. Knot and trim threads of quilting stitches between the layers of pocket and lining.
8. Apply trim to top edge of pocket. I hand sewed my trim on.
9. Secure sides/ends of trim to inside pocket with hand stitches.
10. Fold back seam allowance and slip stitch in place long outside edge of pocket lining.
11. Prick stitch top edge of lining (this works like an under stitch). Then, cut a small opening in lining with v-cuts at each end, over center of buttonhole/welts. Fold and pin this "seam allowance" to inside, over welts, to create a welt opening in lining.
12. Hand stitch welt opening in place.
C'est Finis!
And it's done! (well at least one of them) Hooray! Now I just need to stitch the pockets onto the body and attach the sleeves, finish the sleeve lining at armholes and sew the chain onto the bottom edge. Oh, and sew on all the buttons as well.
At this point, I would like to thank the cast and crew of the STARZ series Outlander, without which this jacket would not even be close to being finished. I've been thoroughly entertained throughout this entire process. Thank you Jamie!!! (and now you know the true secret to my success).
Until next time, Happy Sewing!