The Sewing Room

View Original

Sewing a Miss Fisher Style Jacket with Vintage Chinese Silk

Jennifer Serr

Why Hello! It’s been a few weeks since I’ve posted anything as it has been a very busy start to the NEW YEAR! Thank you for sticking around and reading.

Today’s post is about a 1920’s Short Car Coat I finished just last week. The fabric for the jacket/coat has been in my stash for the last several years. I was planning on making it to go with the blouse and skirt I’m wearing in the photos, for Miss Fisher Con, which was almost 1 year ago (already?). It didn’t quite happen in the time I originally planned to make it, but an occasion came up and It seemed like a faster make than finishing a sweater, so off I went.

The event was the Annual Art Deco Society of California’s Member Appreciation Party at Flora in Downtown Oakland. It’s quite a fun event and I get to see lots of familiar faces all dressed up in Art Deco Era Clothing. Some people are avid collectors, some are makers , like myself, and some have vintage cars. Flora is a restaurant situated in a beautifully restored Art Deco Building just across the street from the Fox Theater, another restored Art Deco masterpiece.

My Mom and I like to go to these events together. Here you can see her all dressed up, as well. She’s wearing a Decade’s of Style Baltimore Dress made by my friend Jess. You might know Jess better as @DuchessOfHutch over on Instagram. I bought it from Jess at a Vintage Sale last year and it worked perfectly for my mom’s outfit. You might also recognize her hat, which I also made. You can see the post for that here.

My hat is very special. It is called the Art Deco and is made by Cybelle Baker of Cloche Call Designs. We met, this hat and I, at Miss Fisher Con and it was love at first site. The details ad shape of the cloche were very unusual and it fit beautifully. How could I pass it up?

Back to the Jacket! - Phryne wears a few silk brocade jackets in the Series Miss Fisher’s Murder Mysteries and the fabric was destined to follow in her footsteps. I made the jacket using a pattern I had on hand already, but shortened it because I had limited yardage. The other alteration I made to the pattern (it was already tailored to my measurements) was to make a large welt pocket instead of patch pockets. It thought that would mirror the look of the sleeve cuff and collar which were made from a coordinating turquoise blue crepe back silk satin.

Here is the step by step way I put the whole thing together:

  • First, I cut out all the pieces from the fabric, lining and interlining. The interlining for the jacket was cotton flannel and for the blue silk accents, silk organza.

  • All the pieces that required interlining were and basted to the interlining (basically everything except the lining.

  • The pockets were installed, fronts joined to back, sleeves assembled and set into the armholes and the lining assembled minus the sleeves.

  • After the sleeves were set into the armholes I set in the lining to the sleeve around the armhole as well.

  • The sleeve cuff was not hanging nicely so I cut away the flannel interlining. The bulk was reduced and it looked much better. Then the sleeves cuffs folded to the inside, catch-stitched in place and the lining was hand finished to the inside sleeve.

  • The lining was basted to the outside of the jacket at the front and neck and hand stitched at the hem, before sewing on the front plackets and the collar.

As you can see from this photo, I have used the pattern before and because it fits so nice in the shoulders, neck and sleeves, it is my go-to coat pattern.

You can see the posts for those jackets here:

http://www.thesewingroomalameda.com/blog/2017/2/7/1920s-straight-coat-and-the-art-deco-member-party

http://www.thesewingroomalameda.com/blog/2018/9/8/creating-a-1920s-style-velvet-evening-coat

Here is the breakdown of the entire look:

Until Next Time, Happy Sewing!

xo

JEnnifer