The Sewing Room

View Original

Sewing 18th Century Italian Gowns with my 13 Year old Student Dalia

Jennifer Serr

When My corset obsessed 13 year old student, Dalia, wanted to move onto a new bigger project, she chose the Italian Gown featured in the American Duchess Guide to 18th Century Dressmaking. What a pretty gown it is! In order to give proper instruction and guidance in the process, I decided to make one myself.

Getting started is often the hard part, with these bigger projects. This one started with all the underpinnings. Dalia had spent the (school) year prior working on a set of stays, so she still needed a shift and false rump and then opted for an additional under-petticoat. The shift she created using the American Duchess Simplicity 8579 pattern. For the under petticoat, petticoat, gown and the false rump we both used the American Duchess Guide listed above. You can read about my Italian Gown making process HERE.

Because I had heard that many costumers found fabric for their 18th Century Costumes at IKEA, I pointed Dalia in that direction. It is a very economical way to go and when you buy a King Size Duvet or Sheet Set, you get a LOT of fabric. Little did I know she would choose the Duvet and Sheets I had at home, at the time, ha ha! I think it is a nice choice, however and I love the asymmetrical design of the fabric and the embroidered birds, along with the contrasting blue petticoat.

Dalia & I discussed the merits of both hand and machine sewing. In the end, she did a combination of both, with mostly machine sewing. It’s just too much to ask of a modern teen to sew such a large project completely by hand.

We started with the Petticoat, which is an endeavor in itself. The fitting part is probably the hardest but much easier to help fit Dalia than to try and fit myself. After her petticoat was complete she moved onto the bodice. Once her muslin prototype was fitting nicely, she used those pieces as the base pieces for the bodice and she hand stitched the fashion fabric on top. This process is called interlining or flat lining. I find it’s a much prettier and smoother finish if this part is done with hand basting instead of machine basting. Machine basting often results in the fabric moving and bubbling a bit, especially if the fabric is at all soft or silky.

The bodice pieces are were then stitched together and the garment re-fit with the sleeves. Adjustments were made and a cotton organdy ruffle was added to the neckline. Dalia lined her bodice to give it a nice clean finish.

The skirt was next and even though it seemed like a thousand pleats I think it’s the easiest part. After the skirt pleats are pinned, the bodice is laid on top and stitched in place. The excess seam allowance just gets folded down on the inside adding to the volume of the skirt. Then there are ribbons attached at the waist and a few strategic spots on the skirt (gown) so that it can be bustled up in the back. The skirt of the gown can be worn up or down for different looks.

Dalia completed the look of the gown with a ribbon bow at the front and American Duchess Kensington Shoes in Black!

I think accessories really finish of the look and allow for a lot of variety in a time when one might only have a gown or two. My choice was to add a bow to the neckline of my gown, wear a cotton cap and silk Bergere hat. I have drop earrings and a bracelet as well as a pearl necklace. To mix it up I might add or subtract items like wearing an apron instead of belting my gown or adding a fichu (a large triangular shawl) or a chemisette as it gets closer to the end of the century. I also love that the skirt is convertible and the whole look could be changed entirely by wearing a different petticoat. I’m excited to try out some new ways to make this gown and petticoat work for different looks.

It was the most delightful experience to work with a young student so interested in the same things I am and willing to put the effort into making such a lovely costume. Dalia was a real trooper and sooooooo patient. We should all give her a round of applause or two. What an accomplishment.

Here are all the details:

Until next time, happy sewing!

xo Jennifer