I long for country living. Imagine a pastoral English countryside with sprawling hills surrounding a historic village. There are Corgi’s running around and gobs of standing stones…..well maybe that’s a bit much, but you get the idea, right? A good walk, and maybe some riding (I am wearing Jodhpurs after all) and then back to the lodge for tea or cocktails.
The reality is that in season 2, Episode 9 of Miss Fisher’s Murder Mysteries, Phryne Fisher gets appointed as director in a film . When she shows up on set, she’s got the most fabulous outfit on. My mom simultaneously gave me a pattern that looked exactly like this outfit. I had been hoarding some wool appropriate for the ensemble for a while and then needed to come up with an outfit for the Sacramento Tweed Ride. Using that pattern as inspiration, and throwing the wool to the wayside (it was warm weather after all), I remodeled a men’s sport coat to fit me and tailored it to look like this jacket. While not precisely the same, I think it gives off the same vibe. You can read about that post here. In any case, around Halloween this last October, I decided I needed something to wear and thought it would be fun to go as my Instagram handle - Vintage Adventuress. Using the sport coat as a jumping off point, I decided to put an outfit together worthy of adventuring.
Essie Davis as Miss Phryne Fisher
After Wearing this sport coat for the Sacramento Tweed Ride, and also after submitting it to the Alameda County Fair, I realized it needed some adjustments. It was too long and the hand sewn button holes looked a little shoddy. I thought it could also use some different buttons and had just the right kind, in my stash.
The jodhpurs were fun to make and a little surprising in their construction. I used a khaki colored canvas I was given to me by a friend and multitudes of the same buttons I used on the jacket. There are also leather panels in the inseam near the groin. I used leather scraps that were donated to the shop. To get the fit right on the jodhpurs, I first measured the pattern for my appropriate size. And I’m glad I did! The calf measurement on the pattern was way too small for my size (everywhere else). Who measure’s their calf circumference on a regular basis? I did and found that I needed to add at lease 1/2 to the circumference at the inseam. In the end, I needed to move the buttons further to the edge of the under placket, in order to be able to close them properly.
My vest was knitted from a heathered wool. It was actually given to me unfinished, by my friend Pauletta’s family. I was able to add a neck rib with yarn that it was bundled with and buttons, from my collection and that was it. I’m proud to show it off. Pauletta was a talented knitter and it’s super special to have her memory live on in my wardrobe.
Nitty Gritty
I used Butterick Making History 6433 for the Jodhpurs. They are actually quite comfortable when finished and other than the calf being too narrow, I totally approve this pattern. Someday I plan on making the jacket out of the same canvas as the jodhpurs. The wool I originally thought would work for this project has been sold in my Etsy Shop, which make me happy because it’s no longer in my project queue.
Sport Coat Adjustments
The sport coat was too long so I cut off 4” up from the bottom edge. So that the lining wouldn’t pull up, it was cut about 1” longer than the outer body fabric.
The bottom edge of the coat was interfaced for 1 1/4” . This was the case on the original bottom of the coat, so I thought it was fitting to do the same after I cut the coat shorter.
Both hem seam allowances were pressed to the inside. They were pinned and then hand stitched together.
These are the hand stitched button holes I did originally. They were sewn, using embroidery floss which kept breaking! I never loved them and had no problem seam ripping them apart.
To make new buttonholes I used a bound buttonhole method:
Cut rectangles out of the excess fabric approximately 2” x 2” for each buttonhole and mark a rectangle on the back side with chalk. My rectangles were about 1” x 1/2”.
Place rectangles face down on buttonhole side and stitch that rectangle through all layers.
Clip through center of rectangle and to each corner.
Turn to inside and press.
Fold back the rectangle to create welts on each side of the buttonhole and pin in place.
Stitch around interior of buttonhole
Fold seam allowance edges of rectangle to inside and stitch in place.
To finish the coat I added vintage faux leather (plastic) buttons to the sleeves and down the front. I also added one extra buttonhole. The buttons give it a very old school feel, I think.
Writing about the process of this jacket re-fashion makes me realize how much just little tweaks can improve the fit or style of any given garment. I encourage you to reach into your wardrobe and try little adjustments to something you already have, before buying something new. It’s infinitely challenging and sooooo much better for the environment.
Until next time, Happy Sewing!
xo
Jennifer
