A few years ago, I copied my favorite underwear so I would have my own pattern. I just loved the vintage styling of the knickers from What Katie Did, but really wanted some that matched the bras I make for myself. Now, every time I need new undies, I can make them myself. I love it! Such an upgrade to have fancy panties at my fingertips. Yay!
So in perusing my drawers, recently, I decided to make some more. I scrounged through my collection of bra and panty making supplies and found that I had just enough supplies to make two pair to go coordinate with two different bras. I have a taupe colored Natori bra that I love and a taupe and brown bra that I made a few years ago. So excited, was I, to find I could make undies to match.
I decided to cut both at once. I do a lot of batch cutting with small projects like this. It makes me feel like I’m accomplishing more if I make two things instead of just one.
For this project I had just enough leg elastic for each pair but not enough for the waists. I would have to mix and match to make it work. So, I decided that I would have the contrast elastic at the waist and this worked out perfectly.
To make the underwear, I first joined the side panels to the front panels at the top edge. The seams were pressed towards the front and the front panel was topstitched 1/16” away from the seam.
Next, with right sides together, I joined the front to the back at the the gusset seam, sandwiching the back between the front and the inside gusset. After the gusset seam is sewn, the gusset gets flipped to the wrong side of the front panel, concealing the seam. I then zig zag join the gusset to the front at the leg edges, to hold it in place.
Then, it’s on to the leg elastic. And with the taupe pair, I had a beautifully matching taupe colored fold over elastic.
Note: The easiest way to get the correct leg/waist elastic lengths is to measure your original pair of panties and use those lengths, plus seam allowance, for the new panties.
To sew the leg elastics onto the panties, I first pin both sides, securing the elastic in strategic spots. The leg elastic will be much shorter than the panty leg, itself. I know I need more shearing (or grip) in the seat of the panties than I do in the front, so I make sure to place the elastic accordingly.
With the fold over elastic, I start with the back side of the fabric facing up and place the fold over elastic near the edge of the fabric with only about 1/4” of the panty under the inner edge of the elastic. I stitch down with a medium size zig zag stitch, stretching the panty as I go.
Once I’ve secured the elastic to the back side, I turn the panties over and fold the elastic over the edge of the fabric (hence “Fold Over”) and stitch the elastic in place with a 3-step zig zag. This step covers the raw edges of the leg.
With both leg elastics now attached, it’s time to move on to the side seam.
I close the side seam on wearer’s right side with two rows of straight stitching. This side seam can be tacked to the back side at the leg opening with either a bar tack or straight stitch tacking along the leg elastic.
Now onto the waist elastic. My panties are roughly the same length along the top edge in the front as they are in the back. I divide my elastic in to quarters and pin to the body at the open edges, centers and side seam of the panties, face down on the right side of the panty fabric.
The elastic is stitched in place with a narrow zig zag, near the picot edge of the elastic, stretching as sewed, to keep the elastic and panty flat, without puckers on the body.
The elastic is then turned to the inside and stitched in place, on the right side of the fabric, with a 3-step zig zag. also stretching the fabric as I sewed.
Then, with right sides together, I joined the open side seam together with a double row of single needle stitching. The seam was tacked down to the back side at both the waist and leg elastics. The panties are now done!
In about an hour , I was able to complete two pairs of panties. Now that’s an accomplishment.
Here you can see the brown panties that I made using power mesh for the seat and duoplex for the front panel. The waist elastic was just sewn on top of the raw edge of the panties for this one and I made a little bow with the remnants. The leg elastic was done using the same method I used for the waist elastic in the taupe pair.
It’s so nice to have new panties that I made two more pair in a peach color that will match two bras that I plan on making . More about that project in another post.
In the meantime, if you are interested in making your own panties, our very own Sophie Hood will be hosting an Online Panty Making Workshop on Wednesday February 17th from 6-9pm over Zoom. You can register for that class HERE. She’ll be using the Arccos Undies Pattern by Sophie Hines.
And if you are looking for materials, I did a search on Etsy and found a ton of great leg elastics and panty making supplies. And of course we have lots of great Cotton Spandex Knits in our Etsy Shop as well as in our Brick and Mortar, which make particularly comfy undies.
Until Next Time, Happy Sewing and Happy Valentine’s Day!
xo Jennifer
