Recently I interviewed my friend and colleague, Susan Aplanalp-Weeks. She has had a varied career in the fashion industry and has worn many hats, some of which are Pattern Maker, Designer, Technical Designer, Production Manager and finally Professional Fashion Instructor. Susan Currently teaches Fashion Classes in the Design Department at UC Davis and she's also taught for the California College of the Arts and Otis Design School in Los Angeles. During the interview we discuss what new designers need to know when starting out.
One of her strongest pieces of advice is that you’ll need to know what your goals are and what kind of designer you want to be. She also, recommends that you start small to get a taste of what it’s like. Having an Etsy shop to test your product is also an avenue Susan suggests as a low-cost way to start out. Please watch the video and let us know what you think. Here are some of the Take-Aways from our conversation:
Know Your Goals
It’s important to know what your goals are so you can create a path that leads you there. Here are some questions you might ask yourself when you are first starting out:
What kind of designer do I want to be?
Do I want to run my own company or work for someone else?
Do I want to run or work for a large company or a smaller company?
What skills do I currently have?
What skills do I need to move forward?
Working for Someone Else Can Teach you A Lot
When you go to work for a company big or small, you learn about their product gets made, how their operations work and what their company culture is. As a young designer you might not know very much and that is perfectly fine. Getting a job as a designer is a wonderful opportunity to learn from those around you. Be a sponge and take notes. There will always be someone who knows more than you and there is ALWAYS something to learn from a situation and environment, either about that situation or about oneself.
Sample Sewing vs. Production Sewing
When you start designing clothing, someone has to sew up your samples. Samples are the garments that are made during product development and production. Development samples are often sewn by “Sample Sewers” who sew the entire garment and very fast. They are often used to work out the kinks of a pattern and/or fit of the garment. In a small company you might hire a sample shop to make your samples or it might even be done in house or by you, if you are taking on that responsibility. In a large company, these samples are often made overseas by the factories who will be producing the garments.
Production sewing is something that happens on a production line. A production line consists of many sewers who are usually sewing one part of the garment and then passing it on to another stitcher who will tackle the next task. This process allows the sewers to get very good and very fast at their own task, which in turn helps the production line run fast and smooth.
Using a Fit Model
A FITModel is a model whose job it is to try on clothing and give feedback about the way it feels on the body. Fit models and pattern makers work closely together to make the garment look the way the designer wants while making it feel good for the customer. Having a fit model who is your standard size is one of the best tools you can have in your arsenal. Garments should be fit at least once on a fit model before they go into production. Often they will need to be fit more than once (multiple samples) if they are not fitting well or need design /pattern adjustments. Keep in mind that more fittings means more money.
The Tech Pack
If you’ve watched Amazon’s Making The Cut, you may have heard the designers talk about the TECH PACK. The Tech Pack is a pack on information pertaining to the garment. The information is very specific. The pack will include:
A detailed sketch, often with notes
A set of finished garment measurements
Measurements for multiple sizes, if the garment is being graded for production
Construction Notes or instructions
Materials list
Build a Great Team
Making clothes is hard work so it’s important to have a good team. When you are starting out, you may be wearing a lot of hats, figuratively speaking, and doing a lot of the work yourself. As you grow, finding good sewers (sample and production) or pattern makers and technical designers is key to creating a product that will sell. You will also need help with finances, marketing and production of your product. Do the research and interview your prospects and know that they will interview you too. YOU will need to be a good team player as well.
Thanks for reading. Please let us know in the comments if there is anything specific you would like to learn about the design process and/or what’s next. We would to hear from you.
Until next time, Happy Fashion!
xo Jennifer
