Apparently I’m a magnet for dress forms. The universe must want me to keep doing what I’m doing because I seem to attract them out of thin air. My first dress form was the adjustable kind. I got it as a gift when I was in high school. That one got rickety pretty fast and then I believe I somehow acquired a display form that I could use for photo shoots maybe 15 years later. My next dress form acquisition was an investment purchase of a model from. I’m not sure that company even exists anymore, but I had started a bridal gown business and needed one for pattern making. Then I found a vintage french couture form at a Paris Flea Market. It was not cheap, but one of my tour companions offered to pack it as luggage on the airplane. I still have her. She is beautiful! Then a few years ago, PGM sent me a dress form because I operated a school and they had a special program for fashion schools at the time. And then last year, a friend texted me that there was a dress form on the corner, so I nabbed that one fast. And most recently…
Read more1950's Dress Mending and Remodel
This is a quick little post to share with you my most recent garment renovation. Last year, my friend Joy gave me this darling vintage 1950’s turquoise dress. It was stained (on the front bust and neckline) but in decent shape otherwise. It’s been hanging on my rack waiting for a makeover. I knew right away, that it needed a neckline overhaul, so that it what happened after I finally decided to tackle it.
Read moreHow to Mend a Vintage Dress with Busted out Armholes
A few years ago, a friend gave me this gorgeous 1930’s/1940’s era dress with rips in the armhole. She thought I could use the fabric or make a pattern from it. She didn’t think it was ever going to be wearable again.
This blog post is about how I fixed the dress so it could be worn again. I was lucky, in that the dress had side ties the could be removed and used for extra fabric. After undoing those seams, and pressing the fabric, I had enough to make patches that I eventually sewed back on.
Read moreRemodeling a 1920's Dress to Give it another Life
First, I’ll start out by saying that I believe vintage textiles are special but not necessarily precious. They are something we should treasure but that we should also use. This is a somewhat controversial point of contention between archivists, historians and collectors when it comes to clothing, especially historic clothing that marks an era in time. Some feel that they should be put away for posterity and preserved for history’s sake. Others feel that they should be worn and treasured personally. I’m kind of in both minds about this, , depending on the garment. However, my own line is drawn when a garment will likely go into the landfill, because someone deems it unwearable for whatever reason - in this case, deteriorating and falling apart. I’m SUPER-NOT into the landfill. My hope is that we can re-use parts of garments that are falling apart and that will extend the life of the original textile.
Read moreVintage Coat Renovation - Sewing a 1930's Inspired Ensemble
Do you ever have fabric that feels like it’s money burning a hole in your pocket? Well, I sure did when my friend Laurie Ann gave me this gorgeous polka dot viscose shantung. Oh, my, it was love at first site. And it was gifted along with a coordinating brown trouser weight fabric as well. I couldn’t pass up the opportunity to sew up a new outfit, perfect for our cool autumn weather.
Read moreRepairing a 1930's Orange Chiffon Evening Gown
My Vintage Fairy Godmother has been quite active over the last few months. In fact, I’m actually quite lucky to have friends that give me vintage pieces that they no longer want or don’t know what to do with. The story behind this ensemble, definitely falls into this category.
Read moreVintage Coat Crusade - Re-Fashion & Restoring my Vintage Coat Collection
I've amassed a bit of a coat collection over the last year. Two of these beautiful coats were given to me, one was purchased at a Vintage Fashion Faire and I even made two myself - a Black 1920's Straight Coat & a Red 1930's long swing coat. For the coats, I didn't make some of my favorite acquisitions needed a little freshening up and/or restoration.
Read moreA Tweed Skirt Story - Comparing Body Measurements to Pattern Measurements
In this post, two recently finished projects will be highlighted, but will the main focus will be on MEASURING. The Bay Area Sewists met up at The Sewing Room a couple of weeks ago to talk with me about pattern measuring.
Read moreModern & Vintage - Combine your patterns for a Retro Look
This Dress was a long time coming. I started working on it in November of last year. Originally, I intended to make it from a wool crepe and that the red rayon would be a wearable muslin. Using the Colette Patterns Oolong Dress pattern (purchased for 1/2 price, when they were discontinuing the pattern), I decided to make one modification - add godets to the skirt in the princess seams to give it a little flip and flare....
Read moreFashion Your Way to a Better Body Image - 5 ways to do it without Dieting
Body Image - That's a tough one for a lot of us. It's not something talked about openly, very often, but a lot of the people I work with seem to be challenged by it, and daily. I've struggled with my own body image over the years as have most of my friends. As a teenager, looking through fashion magazines constantly (wanting to be cool, fashionable and popular), I compared myself to the models on those pages, dressed beautifully & styled to the nines. The comparisons killed me. You see, I've always been my own worst critic. Self criticism and loathing get to the heart of the matter. That internal critic (along with a little external reinforcement - peer pressure, magazines etc.) led me to an eating disorder, hospitalization and a life unmanageable, all by the tender age of 15...
Read moreFull Bust / Narrow Shoulder Adjustment - Fitting my Embroidered Jacket
This jacket was found at the Vintage Fashion Expo in the Michaan's Auction House out at Alameda point last Fall. I loved it immediately and was pleased to say that it fit fairly well upon first trying it on, all be it, a little loose. This beautifully embroidered piece was only $45, so I nabbed it up and took it home.
Once home, I kept trying it on with different outfits and just found that I felt a bit frumpy in it. Have you ever had this experience? My bust and hips are full, at least in comparison to my shoulders and rib cage. The difference in size is about 3 dress sizes. Yikes. I'm the typical "Pear" - size 4 in the shoulders and rib cage, size 8 in the bust and a 10-12 in my waist andhips. Makes for a difficult fit a lot of the time. Well, this car coat (that's what these short jackets are called) is just a little too "Miss Fisher" to give up, so after close inspection, an alteration seemed in order.
"What to do?" You ask. Well, I say, make it fit in the shoulders. I started by pinning out the shoulder to see how much needed to be reduced - about 2" in the end.
After seam ripping the sleeves off the jacket, I drew a new armhole on the jacket, making the shoulders 2" smaller on each side. This made the armhole quite a bit larger than the sleeve.
In order to reduce the armhole measurement so that the sleeve would fit, I created a dart along the sides of the jacket, as there was no side seam to reduce. This made the bust smaller as well, but that worked out just fine, as the jacket was quite full in the bust already.
The sleeves were sewn back into the garment and the lining pinned in and stitched by hand.
With my jacket altered, and fitted properly, I now love it even more. Time to make an outfit to go with it, don't you think?
Happy Sewing!
